This is one of the most common questions I have seen come up in forums online, so I though maybe I would post in our blog about the pro's and cons of doing the route in each direction. The NC500 is a circular route, therefore there is no real start or finish, however most people start in Inverness, especially those renting a car or motorhome, as well as those flying in from around the world.
Inverness is the gateway to the Highlands and it is as good a place to start as any. The fuel here is less expensive, and there are great shops for stocking up before you get going, or for picking up that essential item you really need but forgot to pack. Once you are ready to start, you can either go anticlockwise and head for the east coast, or head over to the west coast and take the clockwise route.
If you are travelling in a motorhome you have the freedom to make this choice at the last possible moment, unless you are booking sites ahead. The only site we booked ahead was Sango Sands in Durness, which we booked for the middle of our trip to enable us to approach from either direction.
The other advantage of a motorhome is that you can take into consideration the current weather forecasts for both east and west. This is crucial, as your adventure will be so much better if you have great weather, if the sun is shining in Scotland, do not drive the opposite way! The last thing you want is to drive into the rain or thick haar (Sea fog) on the east coast if it looks like it will improve in the east later on in your trip? Take advantage of your freedom and follow the sun for stunning sunsets in the west and sublime sunrises in the east.
Do I have to start in Inverness?
The answer is No, you do not. If you are travelling up from the south, I would highly recommend that you ignore Inverness as a starting point altogether, keep to the left of Scotland on your way up and go clockwise if the weather is on your side. This is because of the spectacular "West Highland Way".
This route will take you along the banks of Loch Lomond (East or West) through the wild landscape of Rannoch Moor and through the magnificent mountain range in Glencoe, into Fort William and on to beautiful places beyond. It will add an extra large dose of breathtaking scenery to your trip. There is ample shopping and fuel in Fort William so that is just as good a place to begin your adventure. The scenery is better and you can avoid the A9.
If you are travelling from even further south as we were and fancy a "wild camp" near Loch Lomond and the trossachs then you can book a "camping permit" for your motorhome or tent. We booked two permits, one for the way up and another for the way back. The cost of a permit is a mere £3 per night so it is great value for money and the funds go to maintaining the park for the benefit of everyone. To book a permit just follow this link to the park authority website and Book A Permit
Three Options from Fort William to the NC500
Option 1: From Fort William you can take the A87 up through Spean Bridge and Invergarry, along the banks of Loch Cluanie towards Shiel Bridge, passing the Five SIsters of Kintail (above). Head onwards on the A87 to begin your route by taking the A890 (West Highland Way) after Auchtertyre which heads towards Plockton, Applecross and Locharron. It is worth continuing the short distance to Loch Duich and the Kyle of Lochalsh to see Eilean Donan Castle. Then just double back the short distance to the A87 West Highland Way and begin the NC500.
Option 2: A second alternative route from Fort William is also fantastic and includes a crossing over the sea to the Isle of Skye. After Fort William take the A830 along the banks of Loch Eil, past the Glenfinnen Viaduct (above) and towards the stunning white sandy beaches of Arisaig (below). This is a fabulous place to stop for the night and explore. Then from Arisaig head to Mallaig and take the Calmac Ferry from Mallaig to Armadale. It is not a long crossing and I would book ahead and get the first ferry in the morning having stayed the night in Arisaig.
Once on Skye you can drive along the A851 towards Broadford. At the Junction with the A87 you can either turn right and head back towards mainland Scotland over the Skye bridge, passing Eilean Donan Castle at Dornie. If time allows I would explore Skye, if only briefly. Just 16 miles from Broadford in the opposite direction is Sligachan with its famous bridge and the magnificent views of the Black Cuillins of Skye.
Ready to start the NC500 and still don't know which way to go?
Anticlockwise - East First
Driver gets the better view during the journey
Coastal views are obscured by oncoming traffic on the opposite side of the road
West is best so do the "worst bit" first - you see this a lot?!
Get used to driving the vehicle before heading to narrower roads on the west coast
East has the best sunrises
Less midges in the East
East has the best harbours, castles and distilleries
Less midges in the East
East has the best harbours, castles and distilleries
Clockwise - West First
Passenger gets the best views during the journey
No oncoming traffic to obscure the coastal views on your left
Head straight for the rural roads and stunning scenery
West has the best sunsets
West has the worst midges (May to September and varies depending on weather)
West has the best beaches and mountains
West has the worst midges (May to September and varies depending on weather)
West has the best beaches and mountains
There are pro's and cons to both routes but which ever way you decide to go you are in for a treat. The route is circular so you will see it all at some point? The difference is that when driving anticlockwise you will have to look backwards to get those great views of the mountains in the west so if the west really is best, try and view it from the best perspective by driving up and into the mountains, and not down and out of them?
The east may not be as spectacular or mountainous, but when it comes to activities, it has a lot to offer that the west cannot. If you love whisky, castles, fossils, fishing villages, harbours and history, then the east will keep you happy for weeks on end.
Most visitors only come for a week or so, so try to think of the NC500 as more of an exploration. We first explored the Northern Highlands in 2007 and after ten years of returning to cottages, campsites, hotels and in motorhomes, we still haven't seen everything. We came back again in May 2018 and explored further, finding more new places we want to return to and enjoy at length. The NC500 is a road, it has been there for a thousand years and it isn't going anywhere. You won't see everything on your trip, but you will go home with a long list of places that you want to return to.
The east may not be as spectacular or mountainous, but when it comes to activities, it has a lot to offer that the west cannot. If you love whisky, castles, fossils, fishing villages, harbours and history, then the east will keep you happy for weeks on end.
Most visitors only come for a week or so, so try to think of the NC500 as more of an exploration. We first explored the Northern Highlands in 2007 and after ten years of returning to cottages, campsites, hotels and in motorhomes, we still haven't seen everything. We came back again in May 2018 and explored further, finding more new places we want to return to and enjoy at length. The NC500 is a road, it has been there for a thousand years and it isn't going anywhere. You won't see everything on your trip, but you will go home with a long list of places that you want to return to.
